Troubleshooting guide

Aqua Rite, Aqua Trol, Swim Pure, Aqua Nature, Jacuzzi, Carvin, SaniClear

Is your pool in-ground or above-ground?

• In-ground pool
• Above-ground pool

Confirm with the AL- value

With the switch on AUTO (middle position), press the Diagnostic button several times, until you see a value that starts with AL-, for example AL-0.

• AL-0 to AL-6: set for an in-ground pool, with a flow sensor.
• AL-7: set for an above-ground pool, without a flow sensor.

Don't slide the switch to SUPER CHLORINATE while these values are shown: it can change a setting.

• AL-0 to AL-6
• AL-7
• I can't find an AL- value
• I can't find an AL- value

What is the problem?

• The salt level is wrong, or there is a salt warning (Check salt or Inspect cell light on, Low salt or High salt message)
• There is too much chlorine in the pool
• Only the Inspect cell light is flashing
• HOT is shown on the display
• COLD is shown on the display
• The No Flow light is on
• Lights are off, or no lights are on
• Nothing lights up: no display, no lights
• PCB is shown on the display
• The Diagnostic button does not work
• Something else

Is a flow sensor installed?

Your system shows AL-0 to AL-6: it is set for a pool with a flow sensor. On an above-ground pool, that's fine if a flow sensor is installed in the pipe and plugged into the system.

• Yes, a flow sensor is installed
• No, there is no flow sensor

Danger: your system may ignore the flow sensor

AL-7 is the setting for above-ground pools, without a flow sensor. On an in-ground pool, the system then ignores the flow sensor, even if one is connected. If the pump stops, the cell keeps producing: hydrogen and oxygen can build up in the pipes and cause an explosion.

Check it now:

1. With the pump running and the switch on AUTO, unplug the flow sensor cable from the system.
2. Look at the No Flow light.

• It stays off
• It turns on

First, have your water tested at a pool store

Bring a water sample to a pool store and ask them to test the salt. This step is mandatory: without the real salt level, nobody can tell if the problem is the salt, the cell or the board.

Store tests are not perfectly precise. If the result surprises you, have the water tested at a second store.

Check the percentage dial

The dial sets how much chlorine the system produces, as a percentage. Over time, the dial can get damaged: the board then reads a wrong percentage.

With the switch on AUTO, press the Diagnostic button 4 times, until you see a value that ends with a P, for example 30P. This is the percentage the board reads. Compare it with the percentage selected on the dial.

• About the same as the dial
• Different from the dial, or it keeps changing

This is a reminder, not a fault

When the Inspect cell light flashes, the system has produced chlorine for 500 hours since the last inspection. It does not mean the cell needs cleaning.

• Look at the cell plates (see your Hayward manual).
• Clean the cell only if there is scale on the plates. Never scrape them.
• Then hold the Diagnostic button for a few seconds, until the light turns off.

If the Check salt light is also on, go back and choose the salt problem.

HOT: is it the cell or the board?

HOT means the system reads a water temperature that is too high. Most of the time, the cell is faulty (its temperature sensor), but it can also be the board.

This short test tells you which one. Read each step before you do it: you will need to be quick.

COLD: is the water really cold?

COLD means the water is colder than the minimum for the system to produce chlorine. That is normal in spring and autumn.

If your water is not that cold, the cell or the board may read the temperature wrong. This short test tells you which one.

This is not normal: contact us

Above-ground systems normally don't use a flow sensor, so the No Flow light should never stay on. This is something we can repair.

First, check the basics

The No Flow light means the system doesn't detect water flowing. It is normal when the pump is stopped.

When the pump starts, or when the flow sensor cable is plugged in, the light flashes for about one minute. That is normal too: it should then turn off by itself.

1. Check that the pump is running.
2. Check that the flow sensor cable is plugged in. Its plug looks like a telephone cable plug, at the bottom of the display.
3. If the light is flashing, wait one minute.

• No, it turned off
• Yes, it stays on

Look at the Power light

The Power light must always be on when the system has power. It should never be off.

If only the Generating light is off, check the switch: on OFF (bottom position), the Power light stays on but the Generating light turns off. That's normal.

• The Power light is off, but the display works
• Everything is off: no display, no lights
• The Power light is on

Your board needs a repair

If the display is on but no lights turn on (or the lights go off), look no further: the board needs to be repaired.

The good news: it costs much less than a new cell.

Check the power to the board

On these systems, the main board often gets its power from the GFCI outlet on the side of the board. If that outlet is tripped or faulty, nothing works.

1. Find the GFCI outlet beside the board and press its Reset button.
2. Plug something into that outlet, for example a lamp or a phone charger, to check that it works.

• The system works again after the reset
• The outlet works, but the system is still off
• The outlet doesn't work

First, try another outlet

Plug the system into another outlet. Very often, the GFCI outlet is the problem, not the system.

Your board needs a repair

PCB on the display means the problem is with your system's board. It is often intermittent at first, then happens more and more often.

We can repair your board.

Clean the button: we have a video

Our video shows how to clean the Diagnostic button and fix it yourself, without having to bring it in.

Still not working after that? Request a quote.

Watch the video

Tell us what you see

Describe the problem in a quote request and add photos of the front panel and of the board. We'll get back to you with the repair cost.

Is the No Flow light on?

Without a flow sensor, a system set to AL-0 to AL-6 thinks the water isn't flowing: the No Flow light turns on and the system stops producing chlorine.

• Yes, the No Flow light is on
• No, it is something else

Disconnect your system now

The No Flow light stays off: your system doesn't watch the water flow. It will not stop if there is a problem with the pump, and hydrogen and oxygen can build up in the pipes and cause an explosion.

• Disconnect the system now: unplug it or turn off its breaker. Don't use it until it is repaired.
• Contact us to have it repaired.

Your system is not on AL-7

The No Flow light turned on when you unplugged the flow sensor: your system watches the water flow, so it is not set to AL-7. You probably read another value.

Plug the flow sensor back in, wait until the No Flow light turns off, then check the AL- value again.

Is your system the regular or the low salt version?

• Regular (Needs at least 2700 ppm of salt)
• Low salt version (Needs at least 1200 ppm. Even if it says 1200 to 1800, it works up to 3500 ppm.)
• Not sure (Most systems are the regular version)

Come back with your test result

Once you have the salt level from the pool store, start this guide again. The answer takes less than a minute.

Your dial works: lower the percentage

The board reads the same percentage as the dial, so it works correctly. There is too much chlorine simply because the percentage is set too high.

• Lower the percentage a little at a time.
• Test the chlorine in the morning, before the sun destroys part of it, and aim for about 1 ppm.
• For example, a 100,000 L pool with a T-15 cell and the pump running 24 hours a day rarely needs more than 20% in peak summer, and about 15% the rest of the season. With a solar blanket, even less.

The board needs to be repaired

The board doesn't read the percentage selected on the dial. It can then produce far too much chlorine, or not enough. This is a board problem, and we can repair it.

Read the temperature

Before you start: if the temperature is far off, first check that the cell cable is plugged in correctly, and that the plugged-in cell is the one in the water (some people have a spare cell that reads the air temperature).

If the Power light goes off at any time, stop: the board needs repair.

1. With the cell plugged in, press the Diagnostic button once. The first value is the water temperature read by the cell, in °F or °C.
2. Compare it with the real temperature of your pool water.

• Yes, it matches
• No, it's very different

Everything works

The light was only the normal one-minute delay after the pump starts. Your system detects the flow correctly.

Did you recently replace the flow sensor?

• Yes
• No

Your board needs a repair

The Power light should never be off. There is nothing you can do yourself: the board needs to be repaired, and we can do it.

Your system has power

The Power light is on, so your system has power. The other lights turn on and off depending on what the system is doing.

If you think another light should be on, go back and choose the problem that matches, or request a quote and tell us which light.

The outlet had tripped

Your system works again. If the outlet trips often, have an electrician check it.

Your main board needs a repair

The outlet gives power, but the system stays off: the problem is the main board. Send it to us for repair.

Have an electrician check the power

The outlet that powers your board doesn't work, so the problem is in the electrical supply, not the board. Have an electrician look at it: we can't do anything for this on our side.

The outlet was the problem

Your system is fine. Have the outlet checked or replaced by an electrician.

Check the yellow 20 A fuse

Turn off the power first. Open the front panel and look at the yellow 20 A fuse inside. Replace it if it is blown.

Your system is set for a pool with a flow sensor

Your system is set for a pool with a flow sensor (AL-0 to AL-6), but your above-ground pool has none. That's why the No Flow light stays on.

Contact us: we can repair it.

Enter the two salt levels

On these systems, the number shown is the average of the last 24 hours. If you added salt today, wait 24 hours before you compare. Troubleshooting video

In ppm, the system shows hundreds (3500). In g/L, it shows 3.5. To switch to ppm: press Diagnostic once (the temperature), then slide the switch up to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO. This also switches °F and °C. Video: ppm or g/L

The water is really cold

Your system reads the temperature correctly. The water is too cold for it to produce chlorine, which is normal in spring and autumn. It will start again by itself when the water warms up.

Tell us what you see

The temperature shown matches your pool, but HOT is still on the display. Request a quote and send us a photo of the display: we'll look at it with you.

Unplug the cell to test the board

With the cell unplugged, a good board always shows 77 (°F) or 25 (°C).

1. With the cell plugged in, press Diagnostic once to show the temperature again.
2. Right away, unplug the cell cable from the system and look at the value.

   Be quick: after a few seconds, the display goes back to its normal message. If that happens, plug the cell back in and start again at step 1.

• 77 or 25
• Another value

Check the direction of the sensor

A flow sensor works in one direction only. If it is installed the wrong way, it doesn't detect the flow. This is the most common problem after a replacement: check it against the manufacturer's instructions.

• It was the wrong way: now it works
• It's the right way, and the light stays on

Test the flow sensor out of the pipe

This test tells if the problem is the sensor, its installation or the board.

1. Stop the pump, then take the flow sensor out of the pipe. Leave its cable plugged in.
2. With the salt system powered on, hold the two tabs of the sensor together.

• Yes, it flashes
• No, nothing changes

The board is faulty

If the fuse is good and nothing lights up, the board is faulty. We can repair it.

Great, it works

A fuse can blow once. If the new fuse blows too, don't replace it again: start this guide over.

Don't replace the fuse again

If the new fuse blew too, don't try another one. Something in the machine is causing it, so the whole machine needs to be repaired, not only the board.

Your pool needs salt

The store measured the store result. Your system needs at least 2700 ppm (1200 ppm for the low salt version), and no more than 3500 ppm.

• Before adding salt, turn the salt system off (or set it to 0%) and leave the pump running.
• Spread the salt evenly in the pool, not in the skimmer.
• Use the calculator below to know how much to add.
• Wait 24 hours, then compare again. If the numbers still don't match, start this guide over.

There is too much salt

The store measured the store result. The maximum for your system is 3500 ppm, so it can show a high salt error.

The only way to lower the salt is to replace part of the water: drain some water and add fresh water. Ask your pool store how much. Then have the water tested again.

A small difference: add a little salt

The store measured the store result and your system shows the number shown. A difference of a few hundred ppm is normal: neither the store test nor your system is perfectly precise.

Your system shows less than its minimum (2700 ppm (1200 ppm for the low salt version)), so add a little salt. Turn the salt system off first and leave the pump running. Wait 24 hours, then check again. Keep the store test under 3500 ppm.

A small difference: your salt is near the maximum

The store measured the store result and your system shows the number shown. This small difference is normal, but your system reads above its maximum (3500 ppm).

Replace a little of the pool water with fresh water to lower the salt slightly, then check again.

Your salt and your system agree

The store measured the store result and your system shows the number shown. That is a normal difference, and the level is right for your system.

If a salt light is still on, remember that the number shown is the average of the last 24 hours: it can take a day to catch up. See how to reset the average.

If the warning still doesn't go away, request a quote and tell us what you see.

The gap is large: check your cell type first

The store measured the store result and your system shows the number shown: a gap of the gap. That is more than the normal difference.

If you only had one store test, have a second store test the water too: store tests are sometimes off by as much as 1000 ppm.

Your system has no salt sensor: it calculates the salt from the cell. So it must be set for the cell you have, or the salt reading will be wrong. Some people change this setting by accident, or buy a new cell of the wrong type.

Your board is fine: the cell is faulty

With the cell unplugged, your board shows 77 °F (25 °C): it reads the temperature correctly. The problem comes from the cell.

We can't repair a cell. Check if your cell is still under warranty and contact the store where you bought it, or replace the cell.

Plug the cell back in after the test.

Your board is faulty: we can repair it

With the cell unplugged, a good board shows 77 °F or 25 °C. Yours shows another value, so the board reads the temperature wrong. We can repair it.

Plug the cell back in after the test.

Your sensor and your board work

The flow sensor and the board work: the problem is how the sensor is installed in the pipe. Reinstall it following the manufacturer's instructions, and ask your pool store if you need help.

We repair boards; we don't do installations.

Try a new flow sensor

Your flow sensor is probably faulty. A new one is inexpensive: you can order one on Amazon, for example. When you receive it, test it before you install it in the pipe.

1. Plug the new sensor's cable into the system.
2. With the system powered on, hold the two tabs of the new sensor together.

• Yes
• No

Which cell do you have?

Older models, without the t- value, work only with a T-5, and some also with a T-15. Read the model on the sticker of your cell, for example T-CELL-15.

• T-3
• T-5
• T-9
• T-15
• I can't find it

Check the cell type in the menu

Firmware 4.40 and up offers the 4 cell types. If your cell isn't in the list, your board isn't compatible with it.

1. Unlock the menu: hold the left and right arrows together until it beeps and shows Unlock. Many people miss this step.
2. Press the right arrow to reach the first option, then press + to enter it.
3. Press the right arrow until you reach the salt cell type. Compare it with the model on the sticker of your cell, for example T-CELL-15.

• My cell is the one selected
• My cell is in the list, but another one was selected
• My cell is not in the list, or there is no cell type option
• I can't find my cell model

Which cell do you have?

On an above-ground pool, the system works only with a T-5 cell. Read the model on the sticker of your cell, for example T-CELL-5.

• T-3
• T-5
• T-9
• T-15
• I can't find it

Find your firmware version

With the switch on AUTO (middle position), press the Diagnostic button several times. Each press shows another value.

• The 7th value is the firmware version. It starts with a small r, for example r1.59.
• On recent models, the 8th value is the cell type. It starts with t-, for example t-15 (the t can look like an e).

Don't slide the switch to SUPER CHLORINATE while these values are shown: it can change a setting. Troubleshooting video

• r1.50 or higher, and I see a t- value
• r1.10 or r1.11
• Another version below r1.50, or no t- value

The new sensor works

Install the new sensor in the pipe, in the right direction: follow the instructions that come with it.

Your board needs a repair

Even with a new sensor, the board doesn't react: the board is the problem. Send it to us or bring it in, and we'll repair it.

Your cell doesn't match your system

Your system can't read this cell correctly, so its salt reading will always be wrong. Nothing else can fix this.

Contact us: we can exchange your board for one that works with your cell (the price depends on the board).

Check the jumper under the display

Turn off the power first. Pull the display card straight off the board. Underneath, find the jumper marked J4.

• Jumper in place: the system is set for a T-15.
• No jumper: the system is set for a T-5.
• Some boards have no J4 pins at all: they work only with a T-5.

• It matches my cell
• It doesn't match, and my board has the J4 pins
• I have a T-15, but my board has no J4 pins

Find the model of your cell

The model is on the sticker of the cell, for example T-CELL-5 or T-CELL-15. Once you have it, go back one step.

No sticker, or you can't read it? Most of these systems use a T-5: go back and choose T-5.

Take photos of your diagnostic values

These values show us what your system reads from the cell, for example the cell temperature or an error message.

1. Open the Diagnostic menu.
2. Press the right arrow once.
3. Press the + button to start a new cycle.
4. Take a photo of all the values shown.
5. Press the Diagnostic button again to see the other values, and take a photo of each screen.

Select your cell

Select your cell in the list and save. Then compare the salt again: enter the store test and the new number your system shows.

Does your system have the T-3 jumper?

Only some low salt above-ground models accept a T-3: they have a jumper under the display, and it must be in place.

Turn off the power first, then pull the display card off to look.

• Yes, the jumper is in place
• No, there is no jumper

Now, test the real salt reading

This test shows the instant salt: what your system reads right now, not the 24-hour average. You'll do it twice.

Read all the steps before you start, and be quick. As soon as a red light turns on, the system stops producing chlorine and you must start over.

The switch on the front has 3 positions:

• OFF (bottom): the system stops producing. The Power light stays on, but the Generating light turns off.
• AUTO (middle): the system produces according to the percentage set with the dial.
• SUPER CHLORINATE (top): the system runs at 100% for 24 hours, then goes back to the percentage.

Never slide the switch to SUPER CHLORINATE during the test: going from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back can change a setting.

If the Power light goes off at any time, stop: the board needs repair.

Which cell do you have?

The low salt version is a different type: it works only with a T-9 or a T-15. Read the model on the sticker of your cell.

• T-3
• T-5
• T-9
• T-15
• I can't find it

Does the t- value match your cell?

Your system works with all cells, but it must be set for the one you have. Compare the t- value with the model on the sticker of your cell: t-15 for a T-CELL-15, t-9 for a T-CELL-9, and so on.

• Yes, it matches
• No, it doesn't match
• I can't find my cell model

Which cell do you have?

The first low salt Aqua Rite models, without the t- value, work only with a T-9 or a T-15. Read the model on the sticker of your cell.

• T-3
• T-5
• T-9
• T-15
• I can't find it

Which cell do you have?

Firmware r1.10 and r1.11 work only with a T-15 cell. Read the model on the sticker of your cell.

• T-3
• T-5
• T-9
• T-15
• I can't find it

Change the jumper

With the power still off, put the jumper on the J4 pins for a T-15, or remove it for a T-5. The change works right away: put the display card back and turn the power on.

Send us photos of both sides of your board

Your cell type is right, and your instant salt (the instant salt) is still far from the store test (the store result): the gap apart.

Usually, the cell is wearing out, especially if your system is not very old. To be sure, send us a photo of both sides of the board (the board with all the wires). We'll check for a hardware problem.

• If we see one, we'll tell you the repair cost.
• If we see none, the cell is almost certainly the cause: have it tested.

Turn off the power at the breaker before you open the box. How to remove the board (video)

How old is your cell? On an original Hayward cell, the serial number starts with 1E or 3E followed by the year: 3E21 is a 2021 cell (the first digit is the warranty in years). A cell lasts about 10 000 hours of operation. It only works while the pump runs, and the percentage is the share of that time it produces.

We don't test cells: we only repair boards. To have your cell tested or rebuilt, contact Pool Cell Repair inc., a Quebec company in Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu: poolcellrepair.com or info@poolcellrepair.com.

Go to Pool Cell Repair

Send us your photos

Send the photos of your diagnostic values with a quote request. We'll see the cell temperature or the error message, and tell you if the problem is the cell or the board.

Instant salt test

The 1st value is the water temperature: it should be close to your pool's. If it's far off, check that the cell is plugged in correctly, and that the plugged-in cell is the one in the water (some people have a spare cell that reads the air temperature).

1. Check that the pump is running and the No Flow light is off. If it's flashing, wait until it turns off. If it stays on, start over and choose the No Flow problem.
2. Slide the switch down to OFF, wait a few seconds, then back up to AUTO. Then wait 5 seconds.
3. Quickly press Diagnostic 5 times, noting each value: 1 water temperature, 2 volts, 3 amps, 4 percentage, 5 instant salt. The 5th value starts with a minus sign, for example -3200.
4. The instant salt starts higher, goes down, then becomes stable within a few seconds. Enter the stable number below.

   If you see -0, the system is not producing (paused or in error): start again at step 2.

Set the right cell type

Our troubleshooting video shows how to change the cell type: watch the video.

In short: while the t- value is shown, slide the switch from AUTO up to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO to change it. Repeat until it matches your cell.

Check the jumper under the display

On these first low salt models, the J4 jumper under the display card selects between the T-9 and the T-15. Turn off the power first, then pull the display card off to look.

• It is set for my cell
• I'm not sure

Your system reads the salt correctly

Your instant salt (the instant salt) is close to the store test (the store result). Your cell and your board measure correctly.

The number shown by default is an average of the last 24 hours, so it can lag behind, for example after you add salt. You can wait 24 hours, or reset the average now so it takes the instant value.

How to reset the average:

1. With the pump running, slide the switch down to OFF, wait 5 seconds, then back up to AUTO.
2. Right away, press Diagnostic 5 times, until you see the instant salt (the number with a minus sign). Wait until it is stable. If you see -0, start again at step 1.
3. While this number is shown, slide the switch up to SUPER CHLORINATE, then right back to AUTO. This replaces the average with the instant value.
4. When the display goes back to its normal message, check the salt shown.
5. If the reset didn't work, do it again, faster: the system must still be producing when you slide the switch.

Be quick: if a red light turns on, the system stops producing and you must start again at step 1.

Watch the reset video

Close to the store test: add a little salt

Your instant salt (the instant salt) is close to the store test (the store result), so your cell and your board measure correctly. But it is under your system's minimum (2700 ppm (1200 ppm for the low salt version)).

Add a little salt: turn the salt system off first and leave the pump running. Wait 24 hours, then check again. Keep the store test under 3500 ppm.

Contact us about the jumper

Send us a photo of the J4 jumper and the model of your cell with a quote request. We'll tell you how to set it.

Aqua Rite PRO, Pro Logic, Aqua Logic, Aqua Plus, OmniLogic, OmniPL, OnCommand

What is the problem?

• The salt level is wrong, or there is a salt warning (Check salt or Inspect cell light on, Low salt or High salt message)
• High Salt/Amp is shown
• A temperature message is shown (HOT, COLD…)
• Lights are off, or no lights are on
• Nothing lights up: no display, no lights
• No Cell Power is shown (or No Cell Power 1 or 2)
• COMMUNICATION ERROR is shown
• The display is flashing
• The buttons do not work properly
• The pump doesn't turn on, or is always on
• Outputs don't work: valves, relays, heater, lights, aux
• The clock doesn't keep the right time
• Something else

First, have your water tested at a pool store

Bring a water sample to a pool store and ask them to test the salt. This step is mandatory: without the real salt level, nobody can tell if the problem is the salt, the cell or the board.

Store tests are not perfectly precise. If the result surprises you, have the water tested at a second store.

Quick test: cell voltage and current

1. Open the Diagnostic menu.
2. Press the right arrow once.
3. Press the + button to start a new cycle, and look at the values shown.

• A very high voltage (around 40 V) or current (around 10 A)
• Neither, or I'm not sure

Take photos of your diagnostic values

These values show us what your system reads from the cell, for example the cell temperature or an error message.

1. Open the Diagnostic menu.
2. Press the right arrow once.
3. Press the + button to start a new cycle.
4. Take a photo of all the values shown.
5. Press the Diagnostic button again to see the other values, and take a photo of each screen.

Look at the Power light

The Power light must always be on when the system has power. It should never be off.

If only the Generating light is off, check the switch: on OFF (bottom position), the Power light stays on but the Generating light turns off. That's normal.

• The Power light is off, but the display works
• Everything is off: no display, no lights
• The Power light is on

Your board needs a repair

If the display is on but no lights turn on (or the lights go off), look no further: the board needs to be repaired.

The good news: it costs much less than a new cell.

Check the power to the board

On these systems, the main board often gets its power from the GFCI outlet on the side of the board. If that outlet is tripped or faulty, nothing works.

1. Find the GFCI outlet beside the board and press its Reset button.
2. Plug something into that outlet, for example a lamp or a phone charger, to check that it works.

• The system works again after the reset
• The outlet works, but the system is still off
• The outlet doesn't work

First, try another outlet

Plug the system into another outlet. Very often, the GFCI outlet is the problem, not the system.

Check the yellow 20 A fuse

Before anything else, check the fuse.

1. Turn off the power first, then open the panel.
2. Find the yellow 20 A fuse and check that it is not blown.

• Yes, the fuse is good
• No, it is blown

Your main board needs a repair

No Cell Power means the problem is with your system's main board. It can normally be repaired.

Is the error always there?

• Yes, all the time
• No, it comes and goes

When the display flashes, does everything else still work?

For example, does the pump keep running?

• No, the pump stops working
• Yes, everything else still works

Try this first: we have a video

Press each button one at a time: it should beep, unless the beep was turned off, and the screen should react.

If some buttons don't work, clean them following our video. Use 99% isopropyl alcohol only: 70% alcohol contains water and often doesn't work. The video is in French, but the key point is the 99% alcohol.

Still not working after that? Request a quote.

Watch the video

Contact us for this problem

Describe what you see in a quote request, with photos of the display and of the board if you can. We'll tell you what to check, and what the repair costs.

Tell us what you see

Describe the problem in a quote request and add photos of the front panel and of the board. We'll get back to you with the repair cost.

Is your system the regular or the low salt version?

• Regular (Needs at least 2700 ppm of salt)
• Low salt version (Needs at least 1200 ppm. Even if it says 1200 to 1800, it works up to 3500 ppm.)
• Not sure (Most systems are the regular version)

Come back with your test result

Once you have the salt level from the pool store, start this guide again. The answer takes less than a minute.

Your main board is faulty: we can repair it

A voltage or a current that high means the board is faulty. Send it to us: we can repair it.

Send us photos of both sides of your board

Your cell type is right, and your system (the number shown) is still far from the store test (the store result): the gap apart.

Usually, the cell is wearing out, especially if your system is not very old. To be sure, send us your diagnostic photos and a photo of both sides of the board (the board with all the wires). We'll check for a hardware problem.

• If we see one, we'll tell you the repair cost.
• If we see none, the cell is almost certainly the cause: have it tested.

Turn off the power at the breaker before you open the box. How to remove the board (video)

How old is your cell? On an original Hayward cell, the serial number starts with 1E or 3E followed by the year: 3E21 is a 2021 cell (the first digit is the warranty in years). A cell lasts about 10 000 hours of operation. It only works while the pump runs, and the percentage is the share of that time it produces.

We don't test cells: we only repair boards. To have your cell tested or rebuilt, contact Pool Cell Repair inc., a Quebec company in Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu: poolcellrepair.com or info@poolcellrepair.com.

Go to Pool Cell Repair

Send us your photos

Send the photos of your diagnostic values with a quote request. We'll see the cell temperature or the error message, and tell you if the problem is the cell or the board.

Your board needs a repair

The Power light should never be off. There is nothing you can do yourself: the board needs to be repaired, and we can do it.

Your system has power

The Power light is on, so your system has power. The other lights turn on and off depending on what the system is doing.

If you think another light should be on, go back and choose the problem that matches, or request a quote and tell us which light.

The outlet had tripped

Your system works again. If the outlet trips often, have an electrician check it.

Your main board needs a repair

The outlet gives power, but the system stays off: the problem is the main board. Send it to us for repair.

Have an electrician check the power

The outlet that powers your board doesn't work, so the problem is in the electrical supply, not the board. Have an electrician look at it: we can't do anything for this on our side.

The outlet was the problem

Your system is fine. Have the outlet checked or replaced by an electrician.

Check the yellow 20 A fuse

Turn off the power first. Open the front panel and look at the yellow 20 A fuse inside. Replace it if it is blown.

Your main board needs a repair

The fuse is good and No Cell Power is shown: the problem is your main board. Send it to us: it can normally be repaired.

Replace the fuse

Replace it with the same type of fuse (yellow, 20 A) and turn the power back on.

If No Cell Power comes back, or if the new fuse blows too, send us the main board.

When the error shows, does your equipment stop working?

For example the pump, the lights, or other equipment your system controls.

• Yes, the pump or other equipment stops
• No, everything keeps working

Your main board needs a repair

When the pump stops too, the problem is the main board. We can repair it.

The display is most likely the problem

Since everything else still works, the problem most likely comes from the display. We might not be able to repair it, but contact us with this information and we'll tell you.

Enter the two salt levels

The board is faulty

If the fuse is good and nothing lights up, the board is faulty. We can repair it.

Great, it works

A fuse can blow once. If the new fuse blows too, don't replace it again: start this guide over.

Don't replace the fuse again

If the new fuse blew too, don't try another one. Something in the machine is causing it, so the whole machine needs to be repaired, not only the board.

Contact us before you send anything

The error comes from the main board or the display (keypad). Most of the time it's only the main board. Tell us what you checked and we'll tell you which part to send. The display is expensive to repair: don't send it unless we ask.

Rule out the other devices

Another device connected to your system can cause this error. Let's unplug them to check.

1. Turn off the power.
2. Keep the main display connected.
3. Unplug everything connected to the white connectors at the top left of the main board (for example a wireless antenna).
4. Unplug the green connector with 4 screws, also at the top left.
5. Turn the power back on.

• No, the error is gone
• Yes, the error is still there

Your pool needs salt

The store measured the store result. Your system needs at least 2700 ppm (1200 ppm for the low salt version), and no more than 3500 ppm.

• Before adding salt, turn the salt system off (or set it to 0%) and leave the pump running.
• Spread the salt evenly in the pool, not in the skimmer.
• Use the calculator below to know how much to add.
• Wait 24 hours, then compare again. If the numbers still don't match, start this guide over.

There is too much salt

The store measured the store result. The maximum for your system is 3500 ppm, so it can show a high salt error.

The only way to lower the salt is to replace part of the water: drain some water and add fresh water. Ask your pool store how much. Then have the water tested again.

A small difference: add a little salt

The store measured the store result and your system shows the number shown. A difference of a few hundred ppm is normal: neither the store test nor your system is perfectly precise.

Your system shows less than its minimum (2700 ppm (1200 ppm for the low salt version)), so add a little salt. Turn the salt system off first and leave the pump running. Wait 24 hours, then check again. Keep the store test under 3500 ppm.

A small difference: your salt is near the maximum

The store measured the store result and your system shows the number shown. This small difference is normal, but your system reads above its maximum (3500 ppm).

Replace a little of the pool water with fresh water to lower the salt slightly, then check again.

Your salt and your system agree

The store measured the store result and your system shows the number shown. That is a normal difference, and the level is right for your system.

If you still get a salt warning, request a quote and tell us what you see.

The gap is large: check your cell type first

The store measured the store result and your system shows the number shown: a gap of the gap. That is more than the normal difference.

If you only had one store test, have a second store test the water too: store tests are sometimes off by as much as 1000 ppm.

Your system has no salt sensor: it calculates the salt from the cell. So it must be set for the cell you have, or the salt reading will be wrong. Some people change this setting by accident, or buy a new cell of the wrong type.

An accessory is causing the error

Your main board and display are probably fine. Plug the accessories back one at a time to find the one causing the error. Contact us if you need help.

Which cell do you have?

Older models, without the t- value, work only with a T-5, and some also with a T-15. Read the model on the sticker of your cell, for example T-CELL-15.

• T-3
• T-5
• T-9
• T-15
• I can't find it

Check the cell type in the menu

Firmware 4.40 and up offers the 4 cell types. If your cell isn't in the list, your board isn't compatible with it.

1. Unlock the menu: hold the left and right arrows together until it beeps and shows Unlock. Many people miss this step.
2. Press the right arrow to reach the first option, then press + to enter it.
3. Press the right arrow until you reach the salt cell type. Compare it with the model on the sticker of your cell, for example T-CELL-15.

• My cell is the one selected
• My cell is in the list, but another one was selected
• My cell is not in the list, or there is no cell type option
• I can't find my cell model

Which cell do you have?

On an above-ground pool, the system works only with a T-5 cell. Read the model on the sticker of your cell, for example T-CELL-5.

• T-3
• T-5
• T-9
• T-15
• I can't find it

Find your firmware version

With the switch on AUTO (middle position), press the Diagnostic button several times. Each press shows another value.

• The 7th value is the firmware version. It starts with a small r, for example r1.59.
• On recent models, the 8th value is the cell type. It starts with t-, for example t-15 (the t can look like an e).

Don't slide the switch to SUPER CHLORINATE while these values are shown: it can change a setting. Troubleshooting video

• r1.50 or higher, and I see a t- value
• r1.10 or r1.11
• Another version below r1.50, or no t- value

Your cell doesn't match your system

Your system can't read this cell correctly, so its salt reading will always be wrong. Nothing else can fix this.

Contact us: we can exchange your board for one that works with your cell (the price depends on the board).

Check the jumper under the display

Turn off the power first. Pull the display card straight off the board. Underneath, find the jumper marked J4.

• Jumper in place: the system is set for a T-15.
• No jumper: the system is set for a T-5.
• Some boards have no J4 pins at all: they work only with a T-5.

• It matches my cell
• It doesn't match, and my board has the J4 pins
• I have a T-15, but my board has no J4 pins

Find the model of your cell

The model is on the sticker of the cell, for example T-CELL-5 or T-CELL-15. Once you have it, go back one step.

No sticker, or you can't read it? Most of these systems use a T-5: go back and choose T-5.

Select your cell

Select your cell in the list and save. Then compare the salt again: enter the store test and the new number your system shows.

Does your system have the T-3 jumper?

Only some low salt above-ground models accept a T-3: they have a jumper under the display, and it must be in place.

Turn off the power first, then pull the display card off to look.

• Yes, the jumper is in place
• No, there is no jumper

Now, test the real salt reading

This test shows the instant salt: what your system reads right now, not the 24-hour average. You'll do it twice.

Read all the steps before you start, and be quick. As soon as a red light turns on, the system stops producing chlorine and you must start over.

The switch on the front has 3 positions:

• OFF (bottom): the system stops producing. The Power light stays on, but the Generating light turns off.
• AUTO (middle): the system produces according to the percentage set with the dial.
• SUPER CHLORINATE (top): the system runs at 100% for 24 hours, then goes back to the percentage.

Never slide the switch to SUPER CHLORINATE during the test: going from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back can change a setting.

If the Power light goes off at any time, stop: the board needs repair.

Which cell do you have?

The low salt version is a different type: it works only with a T-9 or a T-15. Read the model on the sticker of your cell.

• T-3
• T-5
• T-9
• T-15
• I can't find it

Does the t- value match your cell?

Your system works with all cells, but it must be set for the one you have. Compare the t- value with the model on the sticker of your cell: t-15 for a T-CELL-15, t-9 for a T-CELL-9, and so on.

• Yes, it matches
• No, it doesn't match
• I can't find my cell model

Which cell do you have?

The first low salt Aqua Rite models, without the t- value, work only with a T-9 or a T-15. Read the model on the sticker of your cell.

• T-3
• T-5
• T-9
• T-15
• I can't find it

Which cell do you have?

Firmware r1.10 and r1.11 work only with a T-15 cell. Read the model on the sticker of your cell.

• T-3
• T-5
• T-9
• T-15
• I can't find it

Change the jumper

With the power still off, put the jumper on the J4 pins for a T-15, or remove it for a T-5. The change works right away: put the display card back and turn the power on.

Instant salt test

The 1st value is the water temperature: it should be close to your pool's. If it's far off, check that the cell is plugged in correctly, and that the plugged-in cell is the one in the water (some people have a spare cell that reads the air temperature).

1. Check that the pump is running and the No Flow light is off. If it's flashing, wait until it turns off. If it stays on, start over and choose the No Flow problem.
2. Slide the switch down to OFF, wait a few seconds, then back up to AUTO. Then wait 5 seconds.
3. Quickly press Diagnostic 5 times, noting each value: 1 water temperature, 2 volts, 3 amps, 4 percentage, 5 instant salt. The 5th value starts with a minus sign, for example -3200.
4. The instant salt starts higher, goes down, then becomes stable within a few seconds. Enter the stable number below.

   If you see -0, the system is not producing (paused or in error): start again at step 2.

Set the right cell type

Our troubleshooting video shows how to change the cell type: watch the video.

In short: while the t- value is shown, slide the switch from AUTO up to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO to change it. Repeat until it matches your cell.

Check the jumper under the display

On these first low salt models, the J4 jumper under the display card selects between the T-9 and the T-15. Turn off the power first, then pull the display card off to look.

• It is set for my cell
• I'm not sure

Your system reads the salt correctly

Your instant salt (the instant salt) is close to the store test (the store result). Your cell and your board measure correctly.

The number shown by default is an average of the last 24 hours, so it can lag behind, for example after you add salt. You can wait 24 hours, or reset the average now so it takes the instant value.

How to reset the average:

1. With the pump running, slide the switch down to OFF, wait 5 seconds, then back up to AUTO.
2. Right away, press Diagnostic 5 times, until you see the instant salt (the number with a minus sign). Wait until it is stable. If you see -0, start again at step 1.
3. While this number is shown, slide the switch up to SUPER CHLORINATE, then right back to AUTO. This replaces the average with the instant value.
4. When the display goes back to its normal message, check the salt shown.
5. If the reset didn't work, do it again, faster: the system must still be producing when you slide the switch.

Be quick: if a red light turns on, the system stops producing and you must start again at step 1.

Watch the reset video

Close to the store test: add a little salt

Your instant salt (the instant salt) is close to the store test (the store result), so your cell and your board measure correctly. But it is under your system's minimum (2700 ppm (1200 ppm for the low salt version)).

Add a little salt: turn the salt system off first and leave the pump running. Wait 24 hours, then check again. Keep the store test under 3500 ppm.

Contact us about the jumper

Send us a photo of the J4 jumper and the model of your cell with a quote request. We'll tell you how to set it.

Induction cooktops

Contact us before you ship the board

We repair Electrolux induction boards for customers in Canada only. For Electrolux, we can also repair the oven section.

Before you send the board, contact us: we confirm that we can repair it and give you the cost. Tell us the model, the error code if there is one, and the problem.

Contact us before you ship the board

We repair induction cooktop boards for customers in Canada only, and only the induction part: not the oven.

Before you send the board, contact us: we confirm that we can repair it and give you the cost. Tell us the brand, the model, the error code if there is one, and the problem.

Does your GE Profile cooktop have WiFi?

We repair GE Profile induction boards on models more than about 8 years old, the ones without WiFi.

• No WiFi
• Yes, it has WiFi
• Not sure (Send us the model: we will check)

We don't repair the WiFi models

Sorry: we only repair GE Profile induction boards on the older models, without WiFi.

Carrier ComfortLink Navigator

What's wrong with your ComfortLink Navigator?

• COMMUNICATION ERROR is shown on the screen
• The screen is broken or unreadable
• Something else

We repair this: send us the unit

We repair the Communication Error on the ComfortLink Navigator. Send us the whole unit. Request a quote first, and we'll get back to you with the cost.

You can replace the screen yourself

We sell a replacement LCD module that fits in place of the original. It's easy to install yourself: 6 screws at the back, then the ribbon cables. The page has the steps and the order link.

Prefer that we do it? Send us the unit: you only pay the shipping.

See the replacement screen

Tell us about your ComfortLink Navigator

Describe the problem in a quote request, with photos. We'll get back to you with the repair cost.

Aqua Solar

Tell us about your Aqua Solar

Describe the problem in a quote request, with photos of the front panel and of the board. We'll get back to you with the repair cost.